Denmark is renowned for some of the highest campsite standards in the world and is an easy ‘hop’ across the North Sea, as Helen Werin finds out. So, what’s stopping you? …
Well, how else do you explain their sudden disappearance and the fact that, in two weeks of travel throughout Denmark, we saw just three other British vehicles? The only time we got to talk to British holidaymakers about their experiences was in the queue for the Harwich ferry on the way home. Indeed the only Brit we spoke to throughout the entire trip was a former disc jockey turned campsite owner from Leeds who, lucky man, has one of the finest views in the whole of Denmark. Perhaps when you consider that Carefree’s site at TopCamp Feddet is one of nearly 500 ‘approved’ camp sites in Denmark and that this far less populated country than ours is spread across a multitude of islands with names like Aerø, Fur and Askø, it might go some way to explaining the ‘mystery’. It also demonstrates just how quiet Danish roads are. Even though it was mid August, Danish children and their German neighbours were already back at school, so camp sites were almost deserted during the week. The only time we encountered traffic jams, got stuck behind other transport or were nearly run over, it involved bicycles, not cars. Not surprisingly, as this is a country of such unchallenging terrain, that it is truly geared up to cyclists. As everyone seems to own a bike no one locks them up or bothers about where they leave them either. Which just about sums up Denmark; this is an infinitely safe, civilised country. One which is spotlessly clean, with no evident poverty, pioneering environmental awareness and an enviable efficiency, from the way pedestrian crossings count down the time you have left to get on to the pavement to the spot-on public transport system. I’d asked my brother, who’d traversed the country by motorbike, what Denmark was like and he’d answered ‘flat’. Well, he would say that being of Welsh origin. He’s not entirely right there though, as we discovered when staying at Laven, the only hillside village in Denmark, in mid eastern Jutland. Vivi, the charming Danish wife of the aforementioned Yorkshireman, Mike Noble, laughed when we said we were going to climb a few ‘mountains’. Denmark’s best-known peak, the Himmelbjerget - meaning ‘the mountain touching the sky’- can be seen across the lake from the Nobles’ aptly-named terraced site, TopCamp Terrassen. But the laughs were on us and the dozens of other tourists from all over the world but, strangely, not Britain, who had ‘made the effort’ by simply driving up to the car park. Himmelbjerget is the seventh highest point in Denmark at 147m; the highest natural point is the nearby Møllehøj, at Skanderborg, at 173m. We may have felt slightly cheated that we did not have to actually climb Himmelbjerget, though we could have trudged up the tower on the top or even arrived by boat and followed the path up the hill. However, sitting at the top in the sunshine with spectacular views across the lakes spread before us more than made up for it. Below us historic boats, which, in peak periods include the world’s oldest working paddle steamer, the Hjejlen (1861), criss-crossed the water and sailed up the Gudenå river, towards Silkeborg.
The Rylen‘s captain offered our eight-year-old daughter, Sophie, the helm as we sailed past lush woodlands through which there are many enticing walks, making a promise to ourselves to return later to enjoy the tranquillity and abundant wildlife. If Sophie was a better swimmer then we would have taken out a canoe, understandably the most popular pastime in these parts. Which brings me to another great thing about Denmark; though they are obviously safety-conscious, the Danes are not a litigious, over-cautious society like we are fast becoming in the UK. Here I digress somewhat to illustrate my point; a London family whom we met on the return crossing had been staying on a farm and one of the children wanted to try horse riding, as offered in the brochure. They were duly directed to a field, where the horse was running free, and told where the tack room was. They were more surprised not to have to “sign our lives away”, as they put it, on pages of disclaimer than facing the considerable difficulty of catching the horse. Indeed, Visit Denmark’s tourist ‘spiel’ exhorts the country’s virtues as “stress free” and says: “You will be able to experience and enjoy a beautiful and special nature undisturbedly (sic) and at your chosen pace”. I really can’t think of a better way of expressing the ease and all-pervading relaxing atmosphere. The following day we exerted ourselves just a little more by climbing the adjacent twin peaks of Stovbjerg (99m) and Sindbjerg (103m) overlooking the lakes of Brassø, Borresø and Julsø. This heath-covered pair, their sides dotted with oak trees, were reached by a choice of shady paths from the lakeside village of Sejs and afforded us beautiful views. Presumably the bench at the top of each hill was for the benefit of all those Danes unused to any sort of incline, as demonstrated by a large group of Copenhagen University freshers whom we met a few days later on the island of Mors, further north. I was rather shocked to see the entire party of youngsters struggling and sweating profusely up what was obviously an immense challenge for them. To us it was just an everyday sort of hill. We had emerged from a picturesque walk through pine woods at Salgjerhøj, the highest point on Mors, with outstanding views from the cliffs above the shallow Limfjord sound. The cliffs between here and Hanklit are renowned as the only place in the world to find Diatomite, a crumbly rock known locally as moler, so the beaches in these parts can be a great spot for fossil-hunters. If it seems so far that our journey was taking us, as ever, in search of spectacular landscapes then you’d not be wrong. We tend to measure our trips in ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ but it’s rarely the camp sites and their locations that inspire such reactions. However, in Denmark, this was the pattern from the moment we walked a few minutes from our first pitch at Mørkholt Strand to the pretty shoreline of Vejle Fjord. In the idyllic setting of Carefree’s TopCamp Feddet we were surrounded by pine woods with only the dunes between us and a magnificent soft sand beach on the Baltic Sea. At Terrassen, its elevated position meant that almost every pitch had uninterrupted views over the lakes. At Resort Jesperhus, on Mors, it was the adjacent Flowerpark which elicited such responses with its millions of flowers, floral sculptures and fountains. In the themed tropical houses, toucans and lorikeets in their glorious colours brushed past our heads. Best of all, our drive to Feddet took us across the nine-mile Great Belt Bridge between Funen and Zealand, the second longest bridge in the world. If Roly, our motorhome, had wings then this is what flying in ‘him’ would feel like, I’m sure. It is the only way to describe the incredible and exhilarating feeling as we rushed across the vast of expanse of sea. On our way back towards Esbjerg from Mors for the late afternoon ferry we had time for a detour. The pencil-thin spit of land separating Ringkobing Fjord, just north of the ferry port, from the North Sea had looked fascinating on the map. When we got there, every bit of our anticipation was rewarded with the longest and most beautiful beaches you could imagine. Choose a spot – any spot – and you could have it all to yourselves. Yes, indeed, an even louder ‘ooh’ on which to end our trip.
COPENHAGEN
By boat is one of the best ways to see this lively, compact city. There are several operators running from Nyhavn and they are great value, from 30krone (adults), half price children, for a one hour trip taking in Holmens Church, Amalienborg Palace, Opera House and Little Mermaid among the major sights. We visited the beautiful Botanical Gardens, with huge glasshouses, peaceful lakeside paths and cool arbors and King’s Garden (both free entry). King’s Garden is also where you will find the Treasury closely guarded by parading soldiers, the only time we saw a security presence in Denmark. The world-famous Tivoli Gardens amusement park is opposite the main railway station. Armed with a free Copenhagen City Map from the tourist office or TopCamp Feddet’s reception you can follow a walking route from the Tivoli and past the main sights including Nytorv Square and the Court Building, Christiansborg (Danish Parliament), through Hojbro Square and along one of the world’s longest shopping streets, Stroget, to bustling Nyhavn. Copenhagen is very easily reached from Carefree’s TopCamp Feddet by driving 30 mins to Olby (junction 32 of the E47/E55) following the huge S sign to the station car park and taking the train into the city (every 10 minutes). The journey takes about 45 minutes and day tickets cost 115krone each, children free. Tickets, from the refreshment kiosk at Olby, also include all day travel on the city’s buses and Metro system. Remember to follow the simple instructions on the reverse (in English) to have tickets validated before you get on the train.
HISTORY AND MYSTERY
Silkeborg, Jutland (from TopCamp Terrassen); in the town’s oldest building, now the museum, we not only found the famous Tollund Man, the most well preserved peat bog body from Prehistoric times (350BC), but the tiny Elling Woman too. The Iron Age man, aged around 40, still wears the leather cap and the plaited noose of the hangman’s rope around his neck. He was discovered 10 kilometres from Silkeborg in 1950. Unfortunately whilst his head was conserved immediately his body was left to dehydrate, so this part of him has been reconstructed. It is believed he was hanged as a sacrifice to the gods. The same fate befell Elling woman, who was found in the same bog two years earlier. The museum also holds special activities during the summer. * Silkeborg was founded on paper in the mid 19th century and the Paper Museum Bikuben is housed in the old production facilities. www.papirmuseet.dk
Jelling, near Vejle, Jutland, (from Mørkholt) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was here during the 10th century that King Gorm and King Harald Bluetooth created a magnificent royal monument. Two giant mounds, nine rune stones and a church remain as evidence of the introduction of Christianity and unification of Denmark. Rows of monoliths and the remains of a 170m long stone ship have been discovered. The fascinating free exhibition Royal Jelling tells the story in English. www.kongernesjelling.dk
All photos © Robin Weaver
FOR MORE INFORMATION VisitDenmark has produced a 32 page camping brochure specifically for UK holidaymakers. Download from www.e-pages.dk/visitdenmark/91 or request online in a print format. For more information on Denmark, latest offers, accommodation and booking go to www.visitdenmark.com We crossed from Harwich to Esbjerg with DFDS Seaways. www.dfds.co.uk (Prices based on two people sharing an inside cabin. Prices correct at time of going to press). High season two berth seaview cabin from £221, car from £89 (single journey) from £620 (return). Low season from £124, car from £77 - per single journey (return from £402). Caravan is charged per metre. Low season free/high season from £12 per metre per single journey Motorhomes are charged low season from £109 and high season from £127 per single journey. Fuel supplement applicable. Prices correct at time of going to press.
WE STAYED AT For Legoland, Fredericia and Jelling; Mørkholt Strand Camping, Børkop***.( +45 75 95 91 22). www.morkholt.dk For Copenhagen and Gavnø Slot, TopCamp Feddet**** Faxe (+45 5672 5206). www.feddetcamping.dk For Silkeborg and lake district, TopCamp Terassen****, Laven, ( +45 8684 1301) www.terrassen.dk For Jesperhus resort, Thy and Mors, Jesperhus Fericenter****, Nykøbing Mors (+45 9670 1400). www.jesperhus.dk
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There’s a big black hole at Esbjerg into which the dozens of British families on the DFDS ferry Dana Sirena are sucked.
We couldn’t resist the pull of the water either and later found ourselves sitting at the prow of the 63-year-old Rylen admiring some of the most expensive real estate in Denmark. These are the homes of some of the country’s top footballers and entrepreneurs.
