We may have come to Nottinghamshire on the trail of Robin Hood, but I was becoming far more intrigued by the evidence of men in animal skins chasing woolly mammoths off cliffs for their furs rather than stories of men in tights hiding in the forest to part the rich from their purses.

Whilst there are many ‘man or myth’ arguments over Robin’s existence, that of our primitive ancestors hunting mammoths is cast in stone – literally.

Creswell Crags is an impressive gorge on the edge of Sherwood Forest. In keeping with all the other legends about the ‘local hero’ that abound, the caves in the gorge were, supposedly, a useful hideout for Robin and his Merry Men.

Far more interesting, to my mind, is that these caves, where Robin is said to have hid from his arch enemy, the Sheriff of Nottingham, were the dens of hyenas during the Ice Age. There are no relics of Robin Hood here; Creswell Crags is the national centre for the Ice Age, with an impressive visitor exhibition opened by the renowned David Attenborough himself. Its’ other claim to fame is as the only known place in the UK where cave art has so far been found – 13,500 year old rock art at that.

On our motorhome journey around Nottinghamshire, we were looking beyond the ubiquitous tales of Robin Hood for the ‘real’ treasures of the county. And we certainly found some of them on a tour of the caves.

Matt, our expert guide, told us that the archaeologists who set out in 2003 to look for cave art found it on the very first morning of their search, in what is called Church Hole. These archaeologists called their find the ‘Sistine Chapel’ of cave art. Over the years people had been looking in the wrong place, in the lower level of the cave, for the drawings. When Ice Age man was around, the floor of the cave was much higher so the rock art was in the top, near where an access platform has now been built for sightseers.

You have to use your imagination somewhat to ‘decipher’ some of the 12 panels of rock art, though the ones of a deer and of birds are impressively clear. Unfortunately, a more recent cave artist has also added a beard to the deer along with his (or her) initials.

It was a little easier to get a picture of what the area must have looked like in the last Ice Age once we’d stepped inside the caves on the other side of the gorge. The county border runs right down the middle and there is a certain amount of rivalry between either side. Most of the archaeological and human occupation evidence is on the Derbyshire side, whilst the cave art is in Nottinghamshire. Matt, a Derbyshire lad, proudly let us get our hands on a hand axe, which, incredibly, has been dated at between 40,000 and 60,000 years old.

These fascinating discoveries only began to come to light in the 1870s when a local clergyman and amateur archaeologist dug several caves out and found flint tools. The caves had been used as cattle barns in the 18th century and the effect of cattle rubbing against the walls had brought up animal bones. During some excavations a complete skeleton of a hibernating cave bear was found in what is called ‘Robin's Hood Cave’. Now the scariest thing is the creepy cave spiders which dangle in the dark. Be warned, there are as many as 20,000 of them at certain times of the year.

It was the romantic atmosphere of Newstead Abbey and the almost pop-star-like celebrity of its’ most famous owner, Lord Byron, which lured us south across Nottinghamshire. It seems ‘gorgeous’ George the poet was a real eccentric. When he inherited the hall here as a 21-year-old bachelor in 1798 he brought his gilded bed – and a tame bear, which was allowed to roam freely. The house had been stripped of everything, even the fireplace, and was in a poor condition. Poor George only just had enough money to furnish some smaller rooms bit by bit; the rest of the hall he used as pistol practice. Eventually his fortunes improved enough for him to have servants. The story goes that he chose the young female ones primarily for their 'personal charms'.

In the gloomy galleries and chambers George also played pranks on his guests, including the time when he got a servant to dress as a monk and get into a stone coffin. Just as a rather tipsy guest came past, the servant got up from his 'eternal sleep' and terrified the bewildered man, much to the amusement of Lord Byron.

These humorous stories aside, Newstead Abbey is itself a delight, with the prettiest of peaceful gardens, through which 'secret' shadowy paths meander down to a lake. Although just the west front of the Augustan priory remains, the other buildings were converted into the house, which Byron sold to his friend Thomas Wildman in 1818 for more than £94,000, a huge fortune in those days. It was Wildman who restored the hall and filled it with fine old tapestries, ancient armour and antique furniture.

So far, we had managed to find quite a few interesting Nottinghamshire sights – and sites – away from the Robin Hood trail. Perhaps inevitably the path followed by the 500,000 other tourists every year was leading us to Sherwood Forest. At its' heart, of course, is the Major Oak. My husband found it "incredibly funny and strange" that people who would not otherwise look at trees crowd around to stare at this ancient oak for hours on end. True, it is a mightily impressive tree, all 23 tons of it, despite the vital supports shoring up its' weakening branches, rather spoiling photographs. Its’ true age is inestimable, although many have guessed at about 1,150 years old. But the stories around it are timeless. Whether you believe Robin Hood was a real historical figure or the creation of medieval storytellers, it isn't hard to imagine this place as the meeting spot for Robin and his band of men. More than 30 years ago the great tree was fenced off because the soil around it became so compacted by the visitors' feet that there was a danger the oak would die.

What doesn't die is the legend that abounds in these parts; of the man the oppressed local people thought of as a free spirit, who fought against tyranny, righting wrongs and robbing the rich to pay the poor.

Merely a romantic notion, or based on fact? Who knows? All I know is that you should take time to meander off Robin’s trail and discover some of Nottinghamshire’s other historical gems for yourself.

All photos © Robin Weaver

WHERE TO STAY

*Helen stayed at the Camping and Caravanning Club’s site at Silverhill Lane, Teversal,  NG17 3JJ (tel: 01623 551838; www.siteseeker.co.uk), a convenient location for all the attractions of Nottinghamshire. It is opposite the Silverhill Country Park with its miles of walks. Usual high club standard and facilities, 126 pitches, non members welcome, open all year.

*The very popular all-year-round Clumber Park Caravan Club Site, in the north of the county, near Worksop, S80 3AE (tel: 01909 484758; www.caravanclub.co.uk), has 183 pitches, non members welcome.

*Blenheim Farm Caravan Park at Bulwell, NG6 8UR, is a small, five van, adult only site, very convenient for Nottingham itself. It also has three fishing lakes and chickens and a vegetable garden which provide its café with fresh supplies. High spec toilets and shower, four hard standings, barbeque area, electric hook ups, waste disposal, dishwashing facilities. (tel: 07773454723; www.blenheimfarmcaravanpark.co.uk). Email for opening dates.

*Four miles from central Nottingham is Thornton's Holt Camping Park at Stragglethorpe, Radcliffe-on-Trent, NG12 2JZ. (tel: 0115 933 2125; www.thorntons-holt.co.uk). Frequent bus service in to the city, heated indoor pool (charge), showers (charge), shop, launderette, games room, chemical disposal point, electric hook-ups. Pub and restaurant close by. Open all year.

WHAT ELSE TO SEE AND DO

*St Mary’s church, built around 1175 is in pretty Edwinstowe village, next to Sherwood Country Park. It is where Robin is said to have wed Maid Marian.

*Prince John died at Newark Castle (www.newark-sherwooddc.gov.uk); apparently, outside these mighty walls was outlaw country. The castle was partially destroyed in the 17th century so the remaining walls now house small formal gardens. The town has popular general markets on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday and antiques and crafts on Mondays and Thursdays.

*Clumber Park (tel: 01909 544917; www.nationaltrust.org.uk) was once a Royal hunting ground, with grand oaks, lonely heaths and hidden glades. It boasts the longest lime tree avenue in Europe at nearly three miles long and over 170 years old and gives the majestic feel of entering a grand ducal estate.

*The In The Footsteps of Robin Hood Trail Guide also directs you to where Robin apparently met Friar Tuck at Thieves Wood/Fountain Dale. Nowadays you can take a walk along the woodland tracks where the Merry Men fought fiend and foe alike. Rufford Country Park has monastic foundations, only visible in the undergrowth. (Download a sat nav guide, Podcast or points of interest map at www.robinhoodbreaks.visitnottingham.com).

*At Sherwood Pines Forest Park, off the B6030 between Old Clipstone and Ollerton, there are some great bike trails for all abilities.

CITY OF NOTTINGHAM

Must-dos include The Galleries of Justice Museum, in the Lace Market (tel: 0115 952 0555; www.galleriesofjustice.org.uk), where you can take part in a ‘trial’ in the Victorian courtroom and be 'sent down' to the original prison cells. It is fascinating to trace the lives of prisoners, many with photographs, from the courtroom to their transportation to Australia – or other fates. The museum also gives quite shocking insight into the filthy, crime-ridden and poverty-stricken streets of the inner city, with tales of the workhouse and debtors’ prison thrown in.

Nottingham sits upon a warren of caves, used over the centuries by local people to escape and take refuge from the world above. At The City of Caves in the Broadmarsh Shopping Centre (tel: 0115 9881955; www.cityofcaves.com) you can tour some of the caves and walk along part of the city’s ancient streets, now hidden behind familiar shops. The feeling is that of being in a different time dimension; whilst people are shopping in Poundland just feet away, cave visitors are listening to unnerving tales of the city’s past. At Nottingham Castle and Art Gallery, built on the site of the original Medieval castle, you can also take a guided tour through some caves to the base of the cliff, where you’ll also find the Brewhouse Yard Museum (tel: 0115 9153600; www.nottinghamcity.gov.uk/museums) and an old schoolroom. Here you can also ‘relive’ World War II in an air raid shelter built into the caves. The oldest pub in England, Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem Inn (1189), is just around the corner and a Mecca for real-ale fans with its' ever-changing range of guest ales.

*The National Ice Centre is where Torville and Dean honed their blades; (tel: 0115 853 3000; www.national-ice-centre.com). The Royal Centre is home to a variety of restaurants and bars and The Royal Concert Hall.and the Theatre Royal (www.royalcentre-nottingham.co.uk)

WHERE TO EAT

*Newark has a farmers' market on the first Wednesday of each month.

*The staff at Creswell Crags Visitor Centre say they dream about the Guinness chocolate cake at The Limehouse Cafe at the nearby Harley Gallery in Welbeck (tel: 01909 542 704; www.eastmidlandsdesigneroutlet.com).

*The Curry Lounge, in Nottingham city centre, is renowned as much for its service as its wonderful dishes, but is still reasonably priced. (110 Upper Parliament Street, tel: 0115 941 8844; www.currylounge.co.uk).

WHERE TO FIND OUT MORE

*www.visitnottingham.com

* Creswell Crags Visitor Centre, Crags Road, Welbeck,Worksop. S80 3LH (tel:01909 720378; www.creswell-crags.org.uk)

*Sherwood Forest National Nature Reserve. (tel: 0844 9 80 80 80).

*TICS at Newark (01636 655765 , Southwell (tel: 01636 819038).

 *www.newsteadabbey.org.uk (tel: 01623 455 900).